Backpacking through South Africa – a travelguide

  • by Marco Süphke
  • 31 Oct, 2018

A travelguide how to travel on-site and where to stay.

South Africa Roundtrip – 5 Weeks (07.07 – 15.08) – Marco Süphke, former intern at Amazing Africa 

My route:

Kruger National Park, Northern Drakensberg, St. Lucia

East Coast: Umzumbe, Coffee Bay, Chintsa, Hogsback

Garden Route: PE, Tsitsikamma Nationalpark, Knysna, Wilderness, Oudtshoorn, Swellendam, Hermanus, Stellenbosch

Cape Town


The northern part of South Africa:

I started my journey after finishing my internship at Amazing Africa in July. I was conscious about travelling through the country, so I planned my trip for 5 weeks to see as much sightings as possible. I got a lot of inspiration from my colleagues and my sister who spent some time in South Africa as well. I travelled with the Baz Bus and slept in hostels most of the time.

If you’re in South Africa you must go to the Kruger National park, because it is one of the biggest reserves in the world with a lot of animal species including the famous Big Five (leopards, elephants, lions, buffalos, rhinos). I think the Kruger National Park is a good beginning for a round trip. The sightings do depend on the weather conditions. If it’s too hot, the animals hide. I was lucky to see a lot of animals during my 4x4 drive. The tours start early in the morning as the chances of seeing cats are better at the break of dawn.

Another highlight along the north of South Africa is the Northern Drakensberg. They are the highest mountains in South Africa and extend to many provinces. I was not sure about where to go, because the mountains do separate into “central, southern and northern”. I was mainly looking for good hostel recommendations. I slept in the Amphitheatre Lodge. With many facilities it’s known as one of the best hostels in that region. From there you can go hiking to the Tugela Falls with stunning views over the whole landscape. There are many possibilities for activities in the region which I booked with the hostel. But be careful: Hiking in South Africa means that there is unsave climbing included.

From the Drakensberg I drove to Durban. The city is the third largest city in South Africa with long beaches and lots of sightings. One Must-See is the uShaka Marine World, a big swimming park with a Sea World. Durban isalso a dangerous city, it is not safe to walk alone after dark. From Durban it is possible to rent a car to drive to the north to St. Lucia. It’s a little town, known for its beautiful beaches and the lake. There I did a game drive in the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi park. In my opinion that was the most beautiful national park I’ve experienced so far. The landscape is so different in comparison to the Kruger. There you’re able to see the Big Five as well. The park is about 1,5 hours drive from St. Lucia. If you’re interested in hippos, I would recommend doing a hippo cruise on the lake. There is a 100% chance to see hippos ... You can also see crocodiles.

The “Wild Coast” of South Africa

The east coast of South Africa, also known as the wild coast in my opinion is a bit unknown. Nevertheless, I wanted to experience some of the best recommended places on my own. The wild coast is also known for its always sunny weather.

I started at Umzumbe, about one hour drive from Durban. Umzumbe is a little town, especially known for its good waves for surfing. I stayed in the Mantis and Moon Backpackers what reminded me of a little jungle. You have all the facilities a person needs – great breakfast in a little café, a pool, whirlpool and great stuff. Mantis and Moon is a hostel with a German owner from Hamburg who realized his dream.
The hostel offers a lot of different activities. I experienced great surfing lessons, good riding lessons through sugar cane and chats with the workers.

Source: http://mantisandmoon.net/
Source: http://mantisandmoon.net/
Source: http://mantisandmoon.net/

The main beach is very long, ideal for a long walk. If you want to go shopping or need to go to the grocery store, you can ask the hostel for a lift.

Coffee Bay was probably my highlight on the whole South Africa trip. It is located about 5 hours drive from Umzumbe. Along the road you can see lots of different scenery. With the Baz Bus you will get to the Umtata Shell Ultra City, where you get picked up by one of the hostel staff. Along the route you can see mountains over mountains as well as traditional Xhosa villages all around. The drive takes about 1,5 hours until you get to the hostel I slept in – the Coffee Shack. That hostel is surrounded by the ocean and traditional villages. You will sleep in your own little house near the ocean or in the “city”. The hostel offers a lot of activities during the whole week. Everyday is a fun day. You can do surfing lessons, visit a Xhosa family or hike to the Hole in the Wall which is probably the highlight on the whole trip. But you as in any country you need to be aware of your surroundings and take care of your belongings.

Source: http://www.coffeeshack.co.za/
Source: http://www.coffeeshack.co.za/
Chintsa is a little village close to the ocean and close to East London. After 3 hours drive you’ll get there with the Baz Bus. Chintsa is surrounded by lots of forests, a beautiful long beach and some shops. I stayed in the Bucaneers Backpackers, a beautiful hostel on the top of the mountain with stunning views, especially for the sunrise. The hostel offers some activities during the day, which you have to pre-book. Hiking, Riding and Surfing are the most popular activities. But the highlight in the hostel is the terrace where you can have free breakfast on Sundays and incredible views over the whole beach. If you have time there, I would recommend going to East London – a bigger city for shopping or walking along the beach. 
Source: http://cintsa.com/

From Chintsa I drove to Hogsback. I’ve never heard of that name, but recommendations definitely spoke for it. Hogsback is located in the forest and mountains. It is really traditional but gets more touristic every year. It is about an hour drive from East London. The Baz Bus does not drive to Hogsback, you have to book a transfer from East London to Hogsback with the Mzanzi Shuttle. I stayed in the Away with the Fairies hostel – a highlight! It’s a location where Tolkien got the inspiration for the Hobbit books. The backpackers is located in the middle of nature. You can do a lot of hikings including waterfalls like “Madonna & Child Falls”, a hike about 2 hours from the hostel. There you get a map with all the hiking trails and really good descriptions of everything. The restaurant in the backpackers offers homemade pizza every evening and you can also get breakfast there. The hostel is most known for its bathtub on an edge of a mountain with wood boiled water. There is a board at the reception where you can sign in for half an hour a day and enjoy a lovely hot bath with a view which is unique.

Source: http://awaywiththefairies.co.za/

The Garden Route

The most famous route in South Africa is the Garden Route. It is a street along the coast with lots of sightings and probably one of the most visited places in South Africa. I’ve already done the Garden Route before but I wanted to have more time for places I liked.

Port Elizabeth is the beginning of the route. It is a harbour city with lots of sightings, a long beach and a great promenade – comparable to the Baltic Sea. From Hogsback you’ll drive about 4 hours to get to your hostel. I stayed in the Lungile Lodge, a really good hostel. It is not in Port Elizabeth central, but near the beach. From the hostel you have a walk of 10 minutes to the beach and the surrounding shops, cafés and restaurants. The hostel itself does not offer breakfast or dinner so you have to go to a supermarket or a restaurant. There are plenty of them along the promenade where you can have great walks. You can also visit Downtown and learn a lot about architecture and paintings. You can go to the tourism office where they’ll give you a map with the different routes. It is smart to do such tours during the weekend as it is not that busy.

Source: https://www.lungilebackpackers.co.za/
Source: https://www.lungilebackpackers.co.za/

A highlight and really close by the hostel is the famous Addo Elephant National Park. There you can do game drives – with your own car or with the hostel which I wouldn’t recommend.

From Port Elizabeth I drove about 1,5 hours to the next stop – the Tsitsikamma National Park. It’s one of the most famous national parks in South Africa with lots of activities. I slept in the hostel Tube n‘ Axe. They offer mountain bike tours, hiking tours or watertubing tours which I personally preferred. Hiking in the Tsitsikamma National Park itselfs is not with a group. You can book a transfer with the hostel, pay the entrance fees and hike. I hiked to the waterfalls, a 1,5 hours hike. And here again: Hiking is not hiking! The waterfall was really dry but still beautiful located at the coast. Another opportunity is Storms River Mouth with a suspension bridge with beautiful views over the whole beauty of the national park. Another activity the hostel offers is water tubing. There you’ll paddle with boards through the river, go jumping of cliffs and have lots of fun. For all the adrenalin junkies: in the national park is also a bungee jump opportunity from a bridge.

Source: http://tubenaxe.co.za/gallery/
Source: http://tubenaxe.co.za/gallery/

About 1,5 hours to the east I got to Knysna. Knysna is a cute city with a famous lagoon and promenade comparable to those in Europe. I stayed in the Island Vibe Knysna which is located pretty central. Unfortunately, they didn’t offer any activities. I booked a transfer to get to Plettenberg Bay, a famous city for whale watching, to take part on a boat cruise. I saw lots of dolphins and whales with Ocean Blue Adventures. Another possibility is going to the Elephant Park Knysna to get into interaction with them. In the evening or during the day you can take a walk along the promenade and have dinner in one of the many restaurants. Don’t miss eating Fish & Chips – my favourite! If you’re interested in the history of Knysna, I would recommend doing a sunset cruise on the lagoon.

Source: http://knysna.islandvibe.co.za/gallery/
Source: http://knysna.islandvibe.co.za/gallery/

My little secret and highlight along the Garden Route definitely is Wilderness. This little town is located along the coast with a beautiful beach and lots of possibilities for leisure activities. I stayed in the Beach House Backpackers. Every room has a view to the ocean with private terrace. Wilderness is not far away to a national park where you can go hiking to some waterfalls. I preferred doing the trail hike. Just follow the train trails to Victoria Bay – it’s worth it! Another highlight you can book with the hostel is Paraglyding. For ZAR 1,000 you’ll have an incredible view over the ocean and the whole beach. If you’re lucky you can see dolphins or seals.

One spot I wanted to see in South Africa was Oudtshoorn. It is a western village and also known as the capital of ostriches. It’s about a 2 hours drive. You have to book a transfer with the hostel to get picked up from George. The route to Oudtshoorn is just stunning and a highlight for all motorbike fans. Along the mountains you’ll arrive at the little Oudtshoorn. I stayed at the backpackers Paradise, which reminded me of a little hotel. Really cute and great staff. Oudtshoorn offers a lot of activities. I booked a mountain bike tour with the hostel from the Swartberg Pass. A transfer drove me to the top of the hill and I had to go down by myself. All in all, it were 65km and the best experience I could have made. You can choose how fast and how long you will drive. I did a stop at the famous Cango Caves for a little break and joined the adventure tour which was really interesting.

Source: http://www.wildernessbeachhouse.com/
Source: http://backpackersparadise.net/gallery/
Cango Caves
Swellendam was my next stop along the Garden Route. It is a little town with cape dutcharchitecture and history. I stayed in the Marloth Lodge with beautiful rooms and a really nice host. I visited the Drostdy museum to learn more about the history and development of the city. I felt like I was in the Netherlands. In Swellendam you also have the opportunity to go hiking. Another highlight was the Cape Agulhas, the most southern point of South Africa, which is one hour drive from the city.
Source: http://marlothhikinglodge.co.za/gallery/
Source: http://marlothhikinglodge.co.za/rooms-and-rates/

The end was near. My next stop was Hermanus. This city is also known as the capital of whale watching. I couldn’t believe when everybody said that you can see whales from the promenade. I stayed at the Hermanus Backpackers after a 1,5 hours drive from Swellendam. The first day I started hiking the Cliff Path. It is a really nice trail along the coast with stunning views on the ocean and the nature around. And it wasn’t a joke when everybody said that you can see whales from the trail. There were plenty. Nevertheless, I wanted to see whales more close, so I booked a boat cruise and saw lots of them so close to the boat. Another highlight was the shark diving I did. Unfortunately I didn’t see any shark but I got a voucher so I can go anytime I want again. Between July and September is whale season in South Africa and especially in Hermanus. The chance to see them during the season is very high.

My second last stop before Cape Town was Stellenbosch. It’s a university city with great cape dutcharchitecture and a beautiful city. Stellenbosch is also known as the wine region. Paarl, Franschhoeck and Stellenbosch are famous for its wine farms and tours. I did a wine tour with Easy Riders – a great and fun experience. And the south African wine is really one of the best I’ve ever tried.
My favourite city in South Africa is Cape Town. It is a dream of a city with a lot of things to do. From Stellenbosch it is just a 30 minutes drive. Cape Town is also known as the mother city as it has all the sightings you can get. I stayed in the Atlantic Point Backpackers near the Waterfront. That was the best hostel I’ve ever stayed in. A modern backpackers with lots of facilities, a good location, great staff and perfect rooms.
Source: https://atlanticpoint.travel/
Source: https://atlanticpoint.travel/

When you’re in Cape Town there are a lot of things you have to do: depending on the time you have and the weather. I hiked on the Lion’s Head. You can get to the parking with an Uber. From there it is a 1,5 hours hike to the top of the mountain. Please don’t forget to bring enough water as the hike is hard. You’ll climb 50% of the route. Another Must-do is of course the Table Mountain. You can choose if you want to hike or use the cable car. You also can do both. There are different hiking trails to get on the top from where you have a perfect view of the city. The weather is unpredictable, so I would do the Table Mountain spontaneous when the weather allows it. Nothing is worse if you just see the clouds. If you hike on Table Mountain please be careful as there are thieves as it is one of the most famous tourist attractions in the world. My favourite sunset spot in Cape Town is the Signal Hill – from here you have a great view over the ocean and Cape Town.

If you are interested in a sightseeing tour, I would recommend the free walking tours. They offer 5 different tours at different times. There you learn more about the development of the city, the apartheid and it is for free. But you’re more than welcome to spend a tip for the guide. One of the most visited places in Cape Town is probably Bo-Kaap. It is a suburb with its famous colourful houses and friendly people.
V&A Waterfront
Lion's Head
Colourful Bo-Kaap

If you want to explore the Cape Peninsula, I would recommend to take a whole day. I did the tour with the red sightseeing bus. You will start at the V&A Waterfront. From there you’ll drive over Muizenberg to Boulder Beach. That beach is famous for its penguin colonies – plenty of them. A little secret is also Simons Town, where it is not that touristic and where you can also see the birds. From Boulders Beach you’ll drive to Cape Point which is famous for its still working lighthouse at the edge of the cliff. There you can hike around the Cape and see lots of nature. From the Cape Point you can also hike to Cape of Good Hope. It is an hour hike and not hard. The Cape Peninsula is my favourite of all sightings in Cape Town. You can explore so many little villages, have great food and hike along the coast. The red sightseeing bus was not expensive and the guide in the bus explains about the city the whole time which was interesting. I would definitely  book the tour again.

Another highlight for me is the V&A Waterfront where I spent most of the evenings. It is a famous waterfront with lots of bars, restaurants and music acts. There is also a big wheel where you can overlook the city and Table Mountain.

Cape Town is just an example of the city of dreams!

All in all, I would say that this trip was the best trip I’ve ever made. I learned a lot of things about the culture, the people and the country. Every province has its own nature and culture. For everybody who is planning such a trip as well and has enough time: Take the time! I would have liked to spend more time in some places, but you can’t do everything. Take your time at places you like or you always wanted to see. I made a mistake in that I booked in advance so I had a strict plan of what to do and when. I was impressed withall the good hostels I stayed at and the friendly staff. There are a lot of hostels in South Africa you can stay in and in comparison to Europe is it cheap. You can get most of the impressions and hostel recommendations in the “Coast to Coast” travel book, which you’ll find in every hostel. There are also activities listed, you can do.
Travelling with the Baz Bus was very good. The booking process was pretty simple and fast and was done via email. When I had questions, I got responses within one hour. The drivers were always friendly and took care of the people and made enough stops. They were really punctual and if the bus was running late, they phoned you.
South Africa has so many things to offer and explore, but as stated earlier as in any country care must be taken with personal safety and belongings,especially in the big cities like Johannesburg, Pretoria and Durban. If you can’t walk a long distance or it’s just too far away, you can call an Uber. It is a taxi company which you can handle with an App. It is really cheap, safe and always fun.

Besides that, South Africa offers amazing landscapes, so many different culturals, friendly people and it is always worth a visit.
I absolutely fell in love with this country!
Muizenberg
Boulder's Beach
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