Discovery the Klein Karoo

  • by Jacqueline van Strijp
  • 25 Apr, 2022
The Klein Karoo has an old and wild feel to it. It feels preserved, remote, and unchanging. It's easy to forget that the earth has kept spinning over the last few decades as you drive through ostrich farms and tobacco plantations. It's a form of magic that's subtle but powerful.

Our Carmen was fortunate enough to be accommodated to the Klein Karoo by SATSA (Southern African Tourism Service Association), where they traveled inland to the east along the relatively unexplored Route 62, the Cape's and probably the world's longest wine route, passing through the Boland and the Overberg. Here's what she experienced and what we learned:

In four days, we covered approximately 1000 kilometers, connecting Cape Town with Oudtshoorn, Prince Albert, and Montagu. With mountain ranges, breathtaking mountain passes, vineyards, streams, arid landscapes, and scenic nature trails, this is a route of contrasts. The path is dotted with charming tiny villages, each with its own interpretation of the country and its history.

Our thousand-kilometer adventure began with a fresh cup of coffee at Peregrine Farm Stall in the beautiful and verdant Elgin Valley. Peregrine has a large selection of locally sourced handcrafted goods and nutritious, sustainably farmed fresh produce. They've been providing genuine home cooking and friendly country hospitality to generations of travelers.

Next, we made our way to Gondwana Game Reserve, the Southern Cape's only free-roaming Big 5 private game reserve, where we were greeted by over 15 different kinds of antelope, making for a very special experience! We arrived at Kwena Lodge, where we were treated to a fantastic home-cooked African lunch that can be served in a variety of settings both indoors and out, allowing us to take full advantage of Gondwana's stunning environment and amenities.

Gondwana Game Reserve

Later Andries, the Managing Director of Buffelsdrift Game Lodge warmly welcomed us and urged everyone to enjoy a sundowner and relax in the last rays of the African sun before we dined on authentic Karoo cuisine on the wooden deck, which overlooks a 5ha waterhole, that is home to big fish, turtles, and hippo. You might even see elephants and other game on the opposite bank if you're lucky.

We went on a night drive through the wilderness after dinner. The rare "Shy five" of Buffelsdrift Game Lodge — caracal, genet, porcupine, aardvark, and aardwolf – can be spotted during this two-hour night drive. We stopped for a break about midway through the night drive to take in the famous Klein Karoo night skies. A night drive has the advantage of allowing you to see nocturnal animals that are rarely seen during the day, and you have a better chance of witnessing them hunt at night.

The following morning we accompanied our Game Ranger at the crack of dawn to see the incredible natural habituated Meerkats emerge from their burrows, just in time to soak in the sun before going about their daily duties. Meerkats are members of the Mongoose family and are recognized for their upright posture and social behavior and they thrive in Buffelsdrift Game Lodge's excellent environment and vegetation.

There is so much more to do at Buffelsdrift Game Lodge, but I had longed to explore South Africa's oldest tourist destination for years: A prehistoric natural marvel buried in the dark depths of a mountain. The Cango Caves. It has been on my bucket list for a long time. Until now, that is.

Meerkat Safari at Buffelsdrift Game Lodge

We were met by an immediate blast of warm temperatures and humidity as we approached the caves. The underground chambers are illuminated, so you won't miss out on any of the cave's natural beauty. A flight of stairs leads down to the massive Van Zyl's Hall, an astonishing cave that is 107m long, 54m broad at its widest point, and up to 17m high. Other notable features are the Cleopatra's Needle, which stands 10 meters tall and is estimated to be around 150 000 years old, the Organ Pipes, the Ballerina, and the Frozen Waterfall.

Midday, we set out to explore the breathtaking Swartberg Pass from the foothills to the peak, which is 1,583 meters above sea level. With optional downhill mountain biking back to the Patat Restaurant, where we tasted the best of local flavors and ingredients at the hands of their head chef Lene, this magnificent pass is recognized as the most stunning in Africa and unquestionably one of the most beautiful in the world.

We joined Ailsa Tudhope, the story weaver, for a pre-dinner walk through the streets of Prince Albert, where she told the stories and heritage of the Ghosts of Prince Albert. We left at dusk and strolled around the streets as darkness fell. Her tales introduce you to the people who have lived here over the years, and the spirits who refuse to leave! On the move, this lighthearted "one-woman show" reveals some of Prince Albert’s hidden treasures and skeletons.

The following day we drove to Meiringspoort Waterfall after a great breakfast at De Bergkant Lodge, which dates back to the mid-nineteenth century. This magnificently renovated and extended Cape Dutch home is the embodiment of Karoo hospitality, elegance, and history.

Cango Caves

The Meiringspoort Waterfall is one of De Rust's most stunning attractions, not only because of its breathtaking beauty, but also because it is free and a popular spot for both young and old. When the region was flooded in 1996, the road crumbled and created a small pool. Today, a picnic space has been added, and it is nicely situated against the pool and waterfall. Swimming is permitted in the pool, which is also deep enough for diving. There's a legend of a mermaid who used to live in the waters but was washed away by floods or caught in a fisherman's net. It has been passed down from one generation of Meiringspoort visitors to the next, despite its amazing nature.

We stopped at Ronnie's Sex Shop after a fantastic lunch at Pluim Eatery & Coffee. This pub was the product of a prank and has become a popular pit-stop on the R62 in the Klein Karoo for bikers, local farmers, and just about anyone in the area. According to legend, Frank Ronald (Ronnie) Price purchased a little farmer's home on a secluded stretch of the R62. His plan was to create a farm stand and sell fresh food to passers-by. The name 'Ronnies Shop' was painted on the side of the building, but business didn't take off right away.

Then, for a chuckle, his pals decided to add the word 'Sex' to the name, changing it to 'Ronnies Sex Shop.' Soon, this attractive sign drew a steady stream of customers, and Ronnie's annoyance turned to excitement as he realized the commercial opportunity afforded by his establishment's newfound fame. Ronnie established a pub on the recommendation of these same buddies and the rest, as they say, is history.
Ronnies Sex Shop

The Montagu Country Hotel hosted the final night of this thrilling trip to the Klein Karoo. The Montagu Country Hotel, South Africa's sole authentic 1930s Art Deco style hotel, is nestled between the Langeberg and Riviersonderend mountain ranges on the historic Route 62, with the Robertson Wine Route right outside its door. We relaxed and enjoyed the incredible view of the neighboring mountains from the hotel's charming courtyard, lush green lawn, outstanding wellness center, and beautiful swimming pool.

What better way to see this gorgeous region than on a custom-designed, educational wine tour in a graceful 1956 Cadillac Sedan De Ville or a fearless 1964 Cadillac Sedan deVille? The Classic American Dream Car Tours at the Montagu Country Hotel had seasoned, registered guides waiting to transport us to the many wine wineries in the vicinity but we rented a Dutch-style art bicycle and explored the town on our own.

In the blink of an eye, my journey through the Klein Karoo had come to an end. In our Amazing Africa, we like to show you the road less-traveled and if you've ever longed to escape to quaint and tranquil towns with a range of historical architecture and unique activities, the Klein Karoo is the spot for you.

The Classic American Dream Car Tours at Montagu Country Hotel
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