Kubuzima bwacu, Rwanda!

  • by Jacqueline van Strijp
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  • 21 Dec, 2023
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If you think about Rwanda, what comes to mind? For us it’s rolling green hills, foggy mornings and mountain gorillas. Well and coffee, of course! But on our Nadine's recent trip to Rwanda she learned how diverse this tiny Central African country really is. From savannahs with giraffes and zebras to misty rainforests with chimpanzees, there’s more to experience than just gorillas!

Our Nadine had the incredible opportunity to embark on a familiarization trip through Rwanda after attending the annual Kwita Izina ceremony. In 2005, Rwanda began officially naming mountain gorillas in what has become a global celebration of nature.  Read more about her experience here:

The first day started on quite a somber note when we visited the Kigali Genocide Memorial site. Opened in 2004, the Memorial became a starting point for peace and is the result of a collaboration between Rwandan authorities and the Aegis Trust for Genocide Prevention, born from the National Holocaust Centre in the UK. Survivors, their experiences and testimonies are at the heart of this memorial site, which also hosts the Genocide Archive of Rwanda and many survivors speak of it as their home.

After an informative morning, we embarked on a city tour of Kigali and visited Nyandungu Urban Wetland Eco-Tourism Park. The Park provides a space for residents and visitors alike to learn from nature, and is part of Rwanda’s efforts to harness eco-tourism to restore biodiversity and conserve urban wetland ecosystems. The park is  also home to 62 local plant species and more than a 100 bird species in its 121.7 hectares. It also features a 10km network of walking and cycling paths, viewing areas, picnic areas, an information center, and a restaurant among other facilities.

We also stopped at an art gallery and local market before ending off our day at the impressive Radisson Blu Hotel Kigali, where we had a relaxing evening, with some excitement in the air for what the following day had in store for us.

Ingoboka translating to 'Support' was born on 27 February 2023 to mother Akarabo from the Hirwa family of mountain gorillas.

The next day we excitedly made our way to Kinigi, Musanze for the annual Kwita Izina ceremony. Greeted by an impressive amount of visitors and an enormous statue of a gorilla family, we knew that this day was going to be very special to the citizens of Rwanda. The naming ceremony is a global celebration of conservation and community-led efforts to protect the habitat of these playful, gentle giants. “Mountain gorillas represent more than a source of tourism, or adventurous entertainment. To us, our gorillas are the custodians of a nature we cherish. Rwanda’s efforts to protect its biodiversity have been multi-faceted, and multi-purposed. From local and international advocacy, to the creation and expansion of national parks, no stone is being left unturned,“ said Her Excellency the First Lady of the Republic of Rwanda, Mrs Jeannette Kagame.

"Today we give a name, we give an identity and we give a future to 23 new baby gorillas."  And with these words, the annual naming ceremony began. The gorillas were named by conservation champions, sport stars, community heroes, international artists and industry leaders. Even American actor and comedian, Kevin Hart, had the opportunity to name one of the baby gorillas. Some names included Gakondo, Ingoboka and Murare - each with its own, unique meaning. The names are chosen to reflect aspects of gorilla life and conservation.

The ceremony also featured Rwandan musicians and a performance with almost 180 artists from the Mashirika Performing Arts and Media Company that celebrated Kwita Izina through the theme of consistency, growth, and expansion. Kwita Izina goes beyond a mere ceremony; it actively involves local communities in gorilla conservation and eco-tourism. The event creates awareness about the economic and ecological value of the gorillas, encouraging communities to embrace sustainable practices and benefit from tourism activities.

“When we invest in nature, we are also investing in ourselves because our environment is the foundation of our economy. This is why Rwanda invests heavily in building an eco-tourism industry that benefits both our people and our planet", said Clare Akamanzi, CEO of Rwanda Development Board.

After an incredibly special day, we headed back to Kigali to enjoy a lovely dinner where we chatted about the day and its highlights.

We had an early departure the following day, as we headed to Eastern Rwanda to Akagera National Park. Upon arrival, we enjoyed a boat excursion on Lake Ihema. Our home for the evening was Akagera Game Lodge. Situated in the only Big-5 reserve in Rwanda, this lodge stands on a hill at the southern tip of the park elevated above the savannah, with exceptional views of Lake Ihema. Akagera National Park is home to the rare swamp-dwelling Sitatunga, Shoebill stork, and the much sought-after Red-faced Barbet. With over 500 recorded bird species, Akagera is one of the best birding environs in the world with the highest recorded number of species per unit area. The park has a unique diversity of habitats, including lakes, marshes, savannah, mountains, and woodland, and is the largest protected wetland in central Africa. Boasting 60 rooms, a conference venue, restaurant, bar, and a spectacular pool deck, the lodge is the perfect home base while exploring the conservation treasures of this park.

After checking in, we had a 'behind-the-scenes' conservation experience with the park's canine unit. The training and deployment of a canine unit in Akagera is integral to the park’s protection strategy – the unit’s rangers and their canine counterparts have contributed to this ensuring that the park’s wildlife is safe and can continue to thrive. As a result of improved safety and social support, wildlife is teeming. Since 2010, wildlife numbers have grown from less than 5,000 to almost 12,000 – continuing the process of restoration of Akagera’s precious ecosystem.

The following day  we had an even earlier check out and departure than the previous day, but we got to enjoy a game drive through Akagera National Park as we made our way from the South up to the North Exit, which delivered some great animal sightings. There were a few stopovers for site inspections, and we headed back to Kigali after enjoying a late lunch. 

We checked in at Kigali Marriott Hotel, which is conveniently located near the Nyarugenge financial district and the Kigali Convention Center. This impeccable 5 star luxury hotel provides spacious, modern rooms with deluxe amenities and premium services. With its versatile event venues and professional concierge services, this hotel caters to leisure and business travelers alike. After a long day on the road and a delicious dinner, we were ready to call it a day and hit the hay for the next day's travel and adventures.

Whilst en-route to Nyungwe Forest National Park the following day, we stopped in Nyanza for a visit to the King's Palace Museum. This beautifully crafted thatched hut, that is shaped like a beehive, is a reconstruction of the traditional royal residence. The Palace Museum is also home to a few long-horned Inyambo cattle, descendants of the king's herd. The cattle are diligently cared for and serenaded, preserving a unique tradition. These graceful cows, originating from the broader Ankole breed, played a pivotal role in royal ceremonies.

Upon arriving at Nyungwe Forest National Park, we made our way to the Uwinka Reception area that is situated in the middle of the park. We had the opportunity to embark on a Canopy Walkway adventure and really experience the vastness of the Great Rift Valley. The forest is home to 300 bird species, 85 mammal species and 13 primate species, and the biodiversity of this park is further enriched by other landscapes like swamps, bamboo thicket, marshes, open woodland and many other microhabitats. However, the best aerial views of the forests' canopy were provided by the 160 meter long, 70 meter high suspension bridge.

After the day's literal highs, we finally reached Rusizi and checked in at Kivu Marina Bay Hotel, which was our home for the evening.

The next day we put on our most comfortable shoes and got ready to return to Nyungwe Forest National Park for a trek to Ndambarare Waterfall. Apart from the breathtaking views, we also spotted some beautiful flora nestled between the lush greenery. Popular for being the largest montane rainforest in the East and Central African region, this park is a must-visit for discovering the beauty of Rwanda's jungles. Ndambarare is one of many waterfalls that is only accessible via hiking/guided forest walks. After our hike, we were spoiled with a lovely lunch and magnificent forest views at One & Only Nyungwe House, and went for a site visit afterwards. After taking in the breathtaking views one final time, we bid farewell to the staff and made our way to Karongi, where we ended the day off with sundowners at Cleo Lake Kivu Hotel. From the hillside overlooking Lake Kivu, this hotel offers endless views, while serving as a launchpad into boundless adventures and relaxation. For dinner, we enjoyed the tropical retreat of farm-to-table dining.

The following morning started on the perfect note - a boat ride to Kinunu Wonders for a coffee experience. We went on a 1.5 hour tour of the plantation and were totally stunned at the greenery of these endless fields, and it's here where Boneza coffee originates from. The coffee is not only harvested solely from the Kinunu region but also fully processed from coffee cherries to green coffee, through the Kinunu washing station. Boneza coffee is a single origin premium quality 100 % Arabica coffee, which we had the delightful pleasure of tasting after the tour. Rwanda only produces a small amount of coffee for domestic purposes and Boneza coffee is one of the leading brands. We enjoyed lunch at Rushel Lodge and made our way to Lake Kivu Serena Hotel in Rubavu via boat, where we spent the evening. There was a sense of excitement in the air as we called it a night, as we knew the next few days would be filled with Rwanda's biggest attraction - gorillas!
We saw a bit more of Rubavu when we embarked on a city tour the next day, followed by a few hotel inspections along the way, and finally made our way to Musanze, with a stopover at Gishwati-Mukura National Park Headquarters where we received a short briefing on the park. Rwanda's fourth national park, covering an impressive 34 square kilometers plus a buffer zone (designated areas used to protect sensitive landscape patches from negative external pressures) is made up of two separate forests - the larger Gishwati and smaller Mukura; hence the hyphenated name. These forests are perched upon the extraordinarily biodiverse  Albertine Ridge that separates the Congo and Nile water catchment regions in Western Rwanda. Comprising 60 tree species, including native hardwoods and bamboo, the area thrives with rich vegetation. Gishwati serves as the habitat for a community of 20 chimpanzees, coexisting with golden monkeys, L'Hoest's monkeys, and Blue Monkeys. The avian population is also abundant, with 232 species documented in Gishwati and 163 in Mukura.

After check-in, we had a few hours of leisure before heading to Gorilla Guardians. This non-profit umbrella organization aims at improving the lives of reformed poachers and communities around Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park through provision of conservation incentives, supporting community enterprise development and livelihood based projects. We enjoyed and engaged in some traditional dances, went on a guided community walk where we shared some cultural experiences, and prepared food with the local ladies.

Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel hosted us for the evening and it was simply breathtaking. Deriving its name from five of the eight volcanoes found in the Virunga Mountains chain, it provides ample opportunities for relaxation amidst the tranquil ambiance of the lodge. Additionally, they feature a restaurant, swimming pool, and a splendid garden. Their dedicated staff is committed to ensuring that your stay is nothing short of delightful. There was a sense of excitement in the air around the dining table at what the following day had in store for us - it was sure to be an unforgettable experience.

The day we have all been waiting for, finally arrived! We were in high spirits as we made our way to Volcanoes National Park. After a quick coffee and briefing, we geared up and started our ascend up the mountain in search of the magnificent Silverback Gorilla families that inhabit the park. We were split into groups of eight and taken to the trailhead, where we met our mountain gorilla trekking party, followed by training on safety and gorilla etiquette. The groups were each taken to see a specific gorilla family that has become habituated. We were also required to wear masks, as the gorillas could contract airborne diseases from us.

The elevation was around 2,500 meters, so even at a leisurely pace, the walk took quite a while. When we finally spotted the troop, our excitement could almost not be contained! During the briefing, we were advised to keep as quiet as possible, which was a bit challenging when you are face to face with a 200kg Silverback male. The angst was quickly turned into awe as we hunched down to take a closer look at their detailed features and got down on their level - literally. They were not very interested in us - and observed us with little curiosity while carrying on with their daily eating. We spent about an hour with these majestic animals, just observing them (and pinching ourselves a few times to make sure we weren't dreaming), but it was sadly time to say goodbye and start our descend. After an amazing morning and hearty lunch, we visited the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, where we learned more about the conservation of Rwanda's gorillas, the dedication of Dian Fossey and the legacy she built here.

This was such an indescribable, dreamlike day for all of us. The interactions, photos and experiences will be etched in my memory forever. We left Volcanoes National Park with so many memories and the group exchanged stories about our interactions and how we experienced the entire day. We went to bed with full tummies and even fuller hearts, but also a hint of sadness as we knew this incredible trip would be ending soon.

Our last day in Rwanda kicked off with various site inspections in Musanze, where we enjoyed an early lunch before heading back to Kigali. After checking in at our last hotel, Kigali Serena Hotel, we had a few minutes to ourselves before the B2B meetings with Rwanda Tourism Operators started. After a round of successful meetings with various suppliers, we freshened up and got ready for our Farewell Dinner. The following morning I bid farewell to my group members, hosts and organisers who have made this a once-in-a-lifetime trip, and before I knew it, the plane touched down on South African soil.